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We now have two ways for you to get your questions to Danny! If you're really passionate about your question, grab a video camera and send us your video question. You'll be able to show your particular problem like words never could, and your video may even appear in an upcoming episode of Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford®. Of course, you can still send us your text questions just like before.
Below you'll see answers that Danny has already given to some of the most common questions we've received.
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Electrical and Lighting, Repairs and Installation, Ask Danny Published 06/25/2008 by Danny Lipford
Jim asks, “I have a loud hum in our telephone line. The phone company says it’s inside the house. Is there any type of a device that can locate the cause of the problem?” There are a number of things that can cause humming or static in a phone line. Here how to go about isolating and repairing the problem.
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Electrical and Lighting, Repairs and Installation, Ask Danny Published 06/20/2008 by Danny Lipford
Can you run an extension line off an already in use phone jack to a room which may not have one? - Robert
Hi Robert,
It’s easy to extend a line from an existing phone jack to a new one in another room. Simply unscrew the existing jack from the wall, and attach the color coded wires for the new cable to the matching terminals. Then run the cable to the new jack and attach the matching wires to it.
For more information on hooking up a phone line, see our articles on How to Install a Phone Jack and Replacing a Telephone Jack.

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Carpentry, Repairs and Installation, Ask Danny Published 06/10/2008 by Danny Lipford
The top board in our bench has a couple of spots of dry rot. We can’t change the board at this time and would really appreciate your home remedy.
- Denny and Danna
Auto body filler works great for repairing rotten spots in wood since it hardens in a matter of minutes and can be used to fill large areas.
Start by using a chisel to remove the rotten wood. If the hole is large, drive a few nails or screws below the finished surface to give the filler something to grab onto. Next, mix up a batch of filler, and apply it to the hole following the safety instructions on the can. It sets quickly, so don’t mix up more than you can use in a minute or two. Once the filler has set for a few minutes—but before it has time to get really hard—use a sharp chisel or hand plane to remove any excess, then sand it smooth and finish.

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Concrete and Masonry, Exterior, Ask Danny, Tools & Hardware Published 06/05/2008 by Danny Lipford
What tool do I need in order to bore drainage holes in a poured concrete retaining wall? - Mike
Hi Mike,
A heavy duty hammer drill or rotary hammer with a high quality masonry bit is the tool of choice for drilling into concrete. The hammer action on the drill propels the bit through the concrete and breaks up any aggregate imbedded in it. This allows you to drill much faster without wearing out either the operator or the bit.
Good luck with your project,

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Attics and Basements, Safety and Security, Interior, Ask Danny Published 05/23/2008 by Danny Lipford
Improperly vented dryers and lint buildup cause over 15,000 fires a year. Venting your dryer to the attic is not only against most building codes and a potential fire hazard, but can result in moisture problems which could lead to rot or mold in your attic.
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Kitchens and Baths, Ask Danny Published 05/14/2008 by Danny Lipford
I am planning to install a ceramic backsplash above my laminate counter top in the kitchen over the painted drywall. What kind of treatment is needed for the drywall so that it does not get moist? Also, a quick step-by-step procedure would help a lot, too. -Raj
Hi Raj,
You should be able to tile right over your existing drywall with no problem. Once the adhesive dries and the grout has set, it will be imperious to moisture.
For detailed instructions on how to install a ceramic tile backsplash, check out the following article, Ceramic Tile Backsplash Project, and video, Ceramic Tile Backsplash, on our website.
Good luck with your project,

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Attics and Basements, Repairs and Installation, Ask Danny Published 05/07/2008 by Danny Lipford
I’m going to finish a portion of the basement for my 12-year-old daughter and her pals to have a place to “hang out.” This section happens to be under the great room on the main floor. Are there products to help in noise reduction, and, if so, what options exist and how are they installed?-Steve
Hi Steve,
Start by insulating the space between the basement ceiling joists with a sound dampening insulation like Owens Corning QuietZone fiberglass insulation. Next, you might want to consider using a soundproofing drywall such as QuietRock for the ceiling. You can watch and read more about QuietRock, on our website at (622) Builders’ Show Special.
Good luck with your project,

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Flooring, Repairs and Installation, Ask Danny Published 04/18/2008 by Danny Lipford
Thomas asks, “I put polyurethane on cabinets after I stained them. Now a week later, I find oil on the surface of the cabinets, and when I try to clean it, it leaves dull spots. I don’t know what to do, or what is the problem. H-E-E-E-E-L-P!!!”
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Flooring, Repairs and Installation, Ask Danny Published 04/02/2008 by Danny Lipford
We are thinking about replacing our tile floor in the kitchen with hardwood. The tile is laid in a concrete foundation and would be huge mess to rip up. Is it possible to lay hardwood over an existing tile floor? If so, what do you recommend? -Donna
Hi Donna,
Yes, you can lay a wood floor over tile if the existing floor is in good shape and without cracks. I would suggest 3/8” thick, prefinished engineered hardwood flooring. You can install it either as a floating floor that locks together and is not attached to the tile, or glue it down. Check to be sure the existing floor is flat first and fill in any low spots with leveling compound. If the floor is being glued to a slick surface, rough the tiles up a bit by sanding them to allow the adhesive to adhere better.
Good luck with your project,

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Safety and Security, Repairs and Installation, Ask Danny Published 03/28/2008 by Danny Lipford
We are in the process of purchasing a new home, but it has a strong damp/musty odor. How can we make sure it has no water damage? -Raul
Raul,
There are a number of possibilities that could be causing your problem including a leaky roof, plumbing leaks, excessive moisture in the crawl space, a slab that wasn’t waterproofed correctly, condensation in the walls due to an improperly installed vapor barrier, or damage from flooding.
While it’s not easy to check inside of walls, you can inspect the attic as well as under the house or in the basement for signs of leaks, moisture buildup, mold, or rot. A moisture meter can be used to check for excessive moisture in wood while a hygrometer can determine the moisture content of the air.
Water stains on rafters are a telltale sign of leaks, either past or present. Also, be sure to examine the floor joists under the house for signs of mold. If the house is in an area prone to flooding, look in out of the way places—like closets and inside of cabinets—for stain lines on the walls or water damage on the floor.
I would definitely have a competent home inspector examine the house before you purchase it, as mold and excessive humidity can be costly to eliminate.
Check out our article How to Prevent and Remove Mold and Attic and Basement Frequently Asked Questions for more information.
